July 14-16 on the TranAm

As usual, we planned to start out from Madison early. I was up by 5:30 and we had ramen for breakfast. Not the breakfast of champions but I figured it was quick and would get us on our way. But after all was said and done we didn’t get underway until 8:30. We filled up our bottles and headed towards Old Faithful. Since we’d driven through the Park as a family in June when we were heading to WA, we figured there was no reason to stop at all the sights again. Our agenda was to get through the Park and reach Colter Bay Village. It was a 75 mile ride–well within our reach; but we had to climb Craig Pass (elev. 8261) and cross the Continental Divide twice (at elevations of 8391 and 7988). So it would be a tough day. 

We rode by West Thumb and stopped at Grant Village for lunch. There was a store where we could buy some stuff for tortilla wraps and fill up our water bottles. We had a nice lunch in the shade, took a power nap, and I got to talk to Chantry on the phone. We were there for a good hour before attempting the next 42 miles to Colter Bay. 

During one of our roadside breaks another TransAmer came up behind us and stopped. She had a huge welcome smile and greeted us with an European accent. Her name was Karolina. She’s from Poland but transplanted to France about 15 years ago. After talking for a while we discovered she’s on the same trail and was headed for Colter Bay as well. “See you there!” we said as she took off. We arrived in Colter Bay to another full campground but thankful to know that they’d have a place for us. We set up camp and headed off to take a shower, do laundry, and get some stuff from the store for dinner. While at the store we saw Karolina. We had shared with each other on the road earlier that we were planning to ride the spur to the Tetons tomorrow (Saturday) and then head out of Colter Bay–her on Sunday and us on Monday. So at the store we agreed that we’d probably see each other along the ride to the Grand Tetons. 

We got back to camp and I got my kitchen out to start making soup for dinner. But as I tried to pressurize my MSR fuel bottle it wouldn’t pressurize. I took it all apart and tried again and it still didn’t work. Why wasn’t it working? It was like I’d lost a seal. It worked this morning well enough. Dumbfounded, I walked around trying to find help from another cyclist or camper. Unable to get any help I was at a loss to what to do for dinner. Diced potatoes and onions lay on the table with three cans of vegetable broth and a small bag of Lil’ Smokies sausages and the mosquitos were driving me crazy. Forrest and Rocky were both at the laundromat getting our clothes and I didn’t know what to do. Suddenly I thought, “Start a fire dummy.” I scoured all the dead wood I could from around our campsite and started a fire. And with Forrest’s bellowing help we were able to cook dinner on the provided fire grate. It took a bit longer but the boys said it was our best meal yet. 

We headed to bed around 11:00. It was the first time in 2-3 weeks that I’d been able to put up my hammock. Last time I froze as the cold air blowed under my sleeping bag but another cyclist (Samuel) told me the key was to bring my air mattress inside the hammock and sleep on it. As my hammock’s exit is from the bottom I didn’t know how well it would work. But I was willing to try it. And it worked great! I slept warm and cumfy all night. Thanks Samuel! I had my alarm set for 6:00 but didn’t get up until 6:30 because my phone had died during the night.

July 15 on the TransAm

I was disappointed to wake up late because we had 68 miles to cover, including our highest pass yet, Togwotee Pass (9658 ft). I had decided before going to bed that we’d have to skip the Teton Spur. It made me sad to do so because I’d always been determined not to miss them. So why skip them? 1) Doing the Tetons on Saturday meant we’d be spending our Sunday at the Colter Bay Campground and as far as I could tell forfeiting any opportunity to hear the preaching of God’s Word and fellowshipping with the saints. 2) it would also mean tackling a massive pass on Monday. 3) Tackling Togwotee Pass on Saturday would make Monday a breeze (the ride from Dubois to Lander is largely downhill). 4) Getting to Dubois, WY Saturday night would open up several options for worship on Sunday. ––So we opted to skip the Tetons and head to Dubois. 

Since my stove wouldn’t work we couldn’t have the oatmeal I’d planned. Breakfast ended up being strawberries, bananas, and carrots dipped in powdered peanut butter mixed with water. (Yes Michael, we finally got around to eating the powdered peanut butter you gave us. Thank you!). We got underway by 8:30 and I was tired. I was not looking forward to this pass. We’d have to climb a total of 3763 ft before the day was over. That’s a lot for one day. We’d done close to that a few times already, but this had been a week of climbing. In the last 5 days we’d already climbed an accumulated 14,785 ft and this would be almost 3800 more. But what ya gonna do!? Did we think this was going to be easy!? So off we went to conquer the world–or at least Togwotee Pass. 

The ride was not a little difficult. It was a steady, hard climb over many miles though it did level out–or even go downhill–several times. At one point it started raining slowly. Since the mosquitos, flies, and horseflies were so bad I figured it was an answer to prayer so I rode along happily. That is until it starting downpouring. Then I quickly scrambled to put away my phone and my iPod shuffle, dig to the bottom of my pannier for my rain gear (which we hadn’t used since June 16 on the coast of Oregon), and then cover my rear panniers with the rain cover. Guess I should’ve specified to God that a light drizzle would’ve worked 🙂 The rain didn’t last very long but I kept my rain gear on because it was getting chilly and because I wanted it to dry out before I put it away. 

We stopped at a gas station halfway up the Pass for lunch and met several cyclists coming down. One guy warned us that a wall of hail was coming. I could see that the sky in the distance was dark and rain-filled. I told the boys to get their rain gear on and we took off up the hill. It wasn’t long before rain and hail began pelting us. “This is pretty cool,” I thought. We can just ride this out, being the tough guys that we are. But then God humbled us. The hail got bigger, fell faster, and hit harder. We ditched our bikes on the shoulder and made for the trees by the road. I found it odd to see that Forrest had run to stand “under” a tree that was nothing more than an 8 ft stump. Rocky and I made for the ones that had lots of branches instead. Forrest soon joined us when he found that his first pick wasn’t stopping much of the hail. We probably waited 5 mins until the hail stopped before getting back on the bikes. The rain was still coming but what ya gonna do? Ride on. When we left the trees Forrest looked back and said “That’s where I was standing at first. I thought it was a full grown tree!” I told him I wondered what he was doing there. Too funny. 

As we continued up the Pass the sunshine broke through the clouds and crazy head winds started blowing. It reminded us of that crazy storm we’d had off the coast of Oregon. At the top we first encountered the Continental Divide at an elevation of 9584 ft and then after pedaling a bit more reached the summit of Togwotee Pass (9658 ft). It’s the highest we’d been yet. It felt really cool to be up so high that nearby mountains at elevations of over 11,000 ft seemed within reach. We took the usual photos and gave praise to God that it was behind us. 

The ride down was long and gradual with its share of hills. The sky looked dark so I kept my rain gear on and we headed for Dubois, another 30+ miles. I knew it would be a push. I continued to pray for the Lord’s help and trusted Him that we’d make it. It seemed like forever but we did make it. We stopped by the store for dinner before locating St. Thomas Episcopal Church, which also serves as a warmshowers site for hiker/bikers. We arrived here by 6:30 looking forward to a rest day. A hiker named Josh was already here and so he showed us around. We cleaned up, ate dinner, and spent a while catching up with emails, texts, and this blog. We hardly have any reception and our wifi is usually poor so this was a refreshing pit stop. Not intending to attend the Episcopal service, I looked online for local churches. I found a Baptist church in town and a community church so close to here that I could almost throw a rock at it. So we opted for the community church. 

Just as we were getting ready for bed guess who shows up? You guessed it, Karolina! Turns out she’d decided against the Teton Spur as well and headed out of Colter a bit later than us. She already knew I was a pastor and that we were taking Sunday off for rest and worship but as she was getting unpacked she mentioned to me that she’d decided to take Sunday off as well. I told her we were voting to church in the morning at 9:30 and she laughed that that was too early to get up on a rest day. I figured that if she happened to be up in the morning I was going to invite her to join us. 

July 16 on the TranAm

I woke up at about 7:00 but figured I’d let the boys sleep in until 8:30 or so. But a little before then Karolina got up and we started talking about religion, Protestantism, Jesus, and the gospel. She’s had some bad experiences with churches and religions in Poland. I told her she just needed to meet the real Jesus. She then asked me about the church I was planning to attend and said she wanted to come with us. Wow! God was on the move and we were in the middle of it. I told her it was a Protestant church and according to their website they love Jesus–that was enough for me. I had no idea what we’d hear or what the service would be like but I knew God had something in store for all of us. So at 9:25 we walked to Warm Valley Community Church. 

The interim pastor, Duane Dewalt (I think tha’s his last name), greeted us at the door with a handshake and a smile. And we could hardly get to our seats without being greeted by another 10 people or so. What a warm church! [It reminds me of my own church and makes me miss them.] We sat near the front and I sat next to Karolina to help her find her way around the Bible. Soon a man stood up front with a guitar and began to lead us in two songs. After he was done another man gave some announcements and led us in a prayer for the needs of the church. Then we sang two more songs and the pastor came to the lectern and began preaching. I think it was his second Sunday. Last week he’d preached on what the church was and today he was going to preach on wha the church does. He took us to the Great Commission in Mt 28.18-20, to the “commission” before the ascension in Acts 1.8, to the evangelism of Andrew in Jn 1.35ff, and then to the evangelism of the Samaritan woman in Jn 4. He spoke very simply and plainly about the need everyone has for Jesus and about the need the church has to tell people about Him. Not only was it a blessing to me and the boys but I was amazed to see how wisely and perfectly God had planned this sermon for Karolina. It was the first time she’d ever been in a Protestant church and the gospel was plainly presented. We enjoyed wonderful fellowship with the church after the service and then came back to our hostel where Karolina and I spoke about the things of God for the better part of an hour. Please pray that the Lord will do a saving work in her. 

After our talk Karolina headed into town to drum up lunch and dinner for us all. She visited several stores and restaurants asking for perfectly good food that would otherwise be thrown away (past its expiration date, etc.). She soon returned with an armful of bread, boxed pasta, cereal, cookies, and macaroni and cheese and said she’d go it again after 8 PM and hit up the restaurants to get us dinner. Apparently she does this all the time and 80% of the time comes away with a cartload. As she puts it, she’s on a moneyless trip across America–and you know, I think she just might do it 🙂 

We’ll be heading out tomorrow for Lander, 75 miles away. It’s the next ideal stopping point on the Trail and we shouldn’t have too much trouble getting there as it’s relatively downhill from here. I hear there’s a great bike shop there and a City Park where we can stay for free and even take a shower and swim in the pool. After that it’s on to Jeffrey City, a ghost town left over after the Uranium mines shut down. There’s a “warmshower” site there at a Baptist church. Then it’s Rawlins, WY. And then somewhere in Colorado. So if all goes well we should be CO by Thursday night. 

Thanks for praying. Thanks for following. Karolina will be leaving with us on Monday. Whether or not we cycle together we’ll at least be stopping in the next few towns together. Please pray that she’ll see Jesus in us and that we’ll yet have the privilege of seeing Him in her. 

Until next time… 🙂

A gorgeous view from the roadside heading out of the South Entrance of Yellowstone.
Our highest elevation so far. But we’ll go even higher in Colorado. Yikes!
This is the view of the Tetons from the water where we stayed at Colter Bay Village.
We saw a bunch of these painted hills as we came into Dubois. It reminded us of the ones we saw in Mitchell, OR. I wonder if they were formed the same way and at the same time.
We just couldn’t get enough of the Tetons. They are so beautiful.

It’s awesome to know that my Heavenly Father made these mountains for us to enjoy. He is glorified by the joy we take in His creation and by the praise we give Him for it. Thank you God.
Approaching Dubois, WY
More Tetons.
So thankful to God to be able to take this amazing journey with my sons across America on bicycle. Thank you Presbyterian Church of Cape Cod. Thank you Elder Johnson, Elder Hobbs, Elder Lee, and Elder Marcel.

July 12-13 on the TransAm

I can’t believe it… we started our 5th week of cycling yesterday and we’ve made it to Yellowstone National Park. Wow! It doesn’t seem possible. As of today we’ve traveled 1329 miles. We passed into Wyoming at 5 PM and we’re camping tonight at Madison Campground in Yellowstone. Tomorrow we’ll go by Old Faithful, Grant Village, and exit out the South Entrance of the Park with the rest of Wyoming ahead of us. I’m totally awed by it all. We’ve seem so much and yet there’s so much more to see. We’ve traveled so far and yet there’s so much further to go. It’s stunning and exciting all at the same time. Thanks for praying us this far. Now please keep praying us all the way home! 🙂 

We’d planned to leave Twin Bridges by 6:30 but by the time we got packed up and said goodbye to the other bikers it was 7 AM. Remembering that the grocery store/coffee shop opened at 7 I decided we should stop in for a coffee. Last time we did that (in Baker City) we ordered ice coffees so we could grab and go. But I spaced it and ordered a 20 oz hot Americano. Guess we’re sitting this one out. Forrest stirred it with a straw to try and cool it down faster and we used the time to get on the wifi and catch up on email & texts. It was then that I uploaded the last post (July 10-11) so it was a blessed providence. We finally got the coffee down by 7:45 and awere on the road again. 

The challenge for the day was the Virginia City hill, which, according to my map, summitted at 7000 ft. But, surprisingly, it wasn’t that bad. It was steep; and it was hard. But it ended up shorter and lower than expected. We had to climb nearly 2300 ft from Twin Bridges but it was so gradual until Virginia City that before we knew it, we only had 1000 ft left. We stopped in Alder at a bar to use the bathroom and fill up our water bottles with cold after. The bartender wasn’t very nice but maybe she was having a bad day. Before we left a man came out and talked to us about our trip. He warned us that the climb was extremely steep but told us the downhill would be a blast. 

When we arrived at Nevada City/Virginia City we stopped to look around at “old Montana.” It was a tourist trap of old buildings, gold panning, and train rides. We took a few pictures, used the bathroom, and headed on. Virginia City was up the road a mile and we were soon through it and headed up the hill. It was a 5.5 mile climb and we actually peaked at around 6800 according to my GPS. I was really surprised when my GPS elevation map showed we were approaching the summit. I expected it to be a good bit further but was very happy to have reached it. We parked out bikes on the roadside and sat down to make lunch before heading down the hill. 

The ride down was a blast but it was cut short by a line of cars behind a flagger with a stop sign. The Department of Public Works was paving several miles of the road leading into Ennis (which at at the bottom of the downhill). We pulled up behind a pickup truck and he offered to give us a lift into town. I hesitated a bit, not wanting to cheat, but figured we didn’t want our bikes ruined. Besides, it was a downhill into town anyway. So we took him up on the offer and loaded up. The ride into Ennis was one of loose gravel flying into the air behind the truck we were in as well as every other vehicle. Once we got ahead of the pavers he dropped us off and, having no reason to stop, we blazed through town on our way to Cameron. But unfortunately they were paving a few miles on the other side of town as well. No pickup this time. The flagger let us through and we biked on the shoulder hoping it would be better. But soon cars and semis were driving by flinging gravel into our faces and on our legs. And of course our own tires were tossing up loose gravel into our gears and derailleurs. It was several miles before we were clear of the tar, but the loose gravel was a problem for a long while. 

We rode into Cameron hot and tired. We stopped at the one store/bar in town and bought some juice and an ice cream so we could use the restrooms (for paying customers only). I got to talking with bartender and asked her about the campground up ahead where we were planning to stay. When she looked at me funny I knew there was a problem. “What campground?” she sai9d. “The one on my map.” “Why don’t you bring your map in and I can take a look.” I pointed out the campground. She recognized it as Ruby Creek Campground but said it was a few miles off the road and recommended we go to another one up the road (15 miles further). Ugh. That was the last thing I wanted to hear. I figured we’d make for Ruby Creek. It had already been a long, hot day. But once we reached the turnoff to Ruby Creek and looked as the road went off in the other direction we decided to keep pedaling. We reached Riverview Campground by 7 PM, a total of 80 miles. What a day! The boys put up the tent while I made soup for dinner. We traded off for the next 15 mins between spooning hot soup into our mouths and swatting mosquitos. They were eating us alive. We couldn’t get into the tent fast enough. In fact, the got in too fast. We’d left everything out. Our clothes hung on our bikes to dry, our dishes and stove were left out for breakfast, and our towels were draped out to dry. And of course we left the fly off the tent so we could see the stars. 

July 13 on the TranAm

When we woke up at 6:00 in the morning the dew was so heavy that everything was soaked. Our sleeping bags were moist and everything else was dripping wet. Bummer. I opted not to cook breakfast, dried everything as best as I could–so I could put it all away–and grabbed all the wet stuff and headed for the neighboring campground to use the dryer. The boys finished packing up and met me there later. 

By the time we got on the road it was 8:00. Later than I wanted but no worries. We only had 50 miles or so to go. But we still needed breakfast… My map showed a restaurant at the next campground do we headed there. Unfortunately it was only open in the evening. We went into the camp store to see what we could find for breakfast. The lady suggested we pedal another 10 miles to an awesome breakfast place between Earthquake Lake and Hebgen Lake. So we bought a pop tart to hold us over and got back on the bikes. 

On the way we stopped by the Quake Lake visitor center to watch a short video explaining the history and geologic data of the historic earthquake and subsequent landslide that created the lake. The quake struck on Aug 17, 1959, killing 28 people and causing a massive landslide that closed off a section of the Madison River turning in into a 6 mile long, 190 ft deep Quake Lake. It was both beautiful and sad. 

By the time we got to Campfire Lodge for breakfast it was nearly lunch time. And by the time we got our order it was lunch time. So we had lunch instead of breakfast. It was just as the lady had promised–a breakfast to be reckoned with. The pancakes were as big as dinner plates. The guy said one biker came through a few days earlier and ate three of them! But then he had to sit on the bench for 4 hours waiting for it to digest so he could bike on. I shouldn’t tell your that another biker came through trying to brave the pancakes only to barf it all up in the parking lot. The moral of the story: even after a hard day’s work the stomach is still often smaller than the eyes. We managed to enjoy a nice lunch and get away on time. 

The rest of the ride was beautiful. It rouded Hebgen Lake and gave us a great view of some massive mountains across the lake. On the way I was in touch with our new dear sister in Christ, Linda Teakell. She was trying to secure us a camping spot at the Madison Campground in Yellowstone, just 14 miles past West Yellowstone, MT. She got back to me and said “I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the campground is full into August.” Looks like we’re staying in West Yellowstone–but could even find last minute accommodations there?. “Something miraculous is going to happen!” she said as she hung up. I believed that too. So we pedaled on and didn’t worry about it. God’s in control. 

We got to West Yellowstone around 2:30 and headed straight fort the Free Heel and Wheel bike shop. Dan, the owner/mechanic was super nice and got our bikes straight in. Forrest needed a new rear tire. It had been bulging for the last 200 miles or so as the tire wa pulling away from the bead. Strange. The same thing happened to the front tire back in Dayville, OR. And these are brand new Continental Tour Rides. If we weren’t on the road I’m sure we could get a refund… Oh well. Rocky’s rear disc was bent and needed straightening. My gears needed a slight adjustment. When I told Dan that we were disappointed not to get a place at Madison, he suggested I go across the street too th Visitor Center and ask them about it since he thought they usually had room for bikers. So I did. “They won’t turn you away,” she said. “Even if the campground is full, they’ll never turn away hikers or bikers.” A miracle? Sure! Dan filled up all our bottles with ice cold water and after a quick stop at the grocery store we headed into Yellowstone Natinal Park. It was after 4:00 and the majority of the traffic was exiting in the lane opposite us so we had a pretty sweet 14 mile ride into the park. And sure enough, they put us up at the hiker/biker site directly behind the registration building. God be praised. 

We waved at two other cyclists there and proceeded to set up camp. Soon the young lady comes walking over with her hand out and said, “James?” “Yes….” “How do you know me? Who are you?” “We’ve heard all about you guys from Samuel. I’m Laura and this is Nate.” “Oh! How cool! Nice to meet you.” Within an hour Jack and Alex showed up on bikes and greeted us like they knew us. “Samuel told us about you guys,” they said. “We stayed with him in Grant Village last night.” It’s crazy how the TransAm works. They say you can send messages ahead, leave messages behind, and generally communicate backwards or forwards. Turns out Samuel (who left us in Conner when we stayed an extra day with the Teakell’s) is talking about us 🙂 We recommended that Jack and Alex stay at the Teakell’s on their way West. Lord willing, they’ll get a good dose of the joy of the Lord on top of some Christlike hospitality. 

We put all our stuff in the provided bear box (“This is bear country,” they said) and went to bed. In less than 30 mins I was half asleep and suddenly awoke to the sounds of dozens of animal calls. Coyotes and I don’t know what else. But the woods were full of it. It was one of the eeriest and coolest things I’ve ever experienced. “I’m really sleeping in the wild,” I thought. The boys were asleep and missed it. I reminded myself that my God is God of the animals and rolled over and went to bed. 

Thanks for praying. Thanks for following. God is good. God is great. All the time. 

Until next time… 🙂 

I think I can finally add some pictures! 

***PS. I realized too late that I added several Yellowstone photos from July 14th to this post. We arrived at the Madison Campground in Yellowstone on Thursday the 13th and rode through the Park on Friday the 14th. 

It’s hard to believe that we’ve covered so many miles!
The beauties of Yellowstone…
Is it only in Montana that people jog in cowboy hats?
Hebgen Lake
Yellowstone National Park
Hebgen Lake. Water flows out of the Hebgen Lake Dam into Quake Lake and down the spillway into Madison River
Quake Lake. You can see the area of the landslide in the background, which created the lake in 1959.
Cameron, MT. We stayed in a campground near here.
At the visitor center overlooking Quake Lake.
We crossed the Continental Divide three times on July 14 as we made our way through Yellowstone.
Working on dinner at Madison Campground in Yellowstone.

This is not our tent, but this is essentially the view we enjoyed at the Riverview Campground outside of Cameron
Yellowstone
In the touristy Nevada City, MT
There were a LOT of people fly fishing in the Madison River. We had a hard time finding a camping spot outside of Cameron because there were so many many fishermen. We finally found a place at the 4th campground we tried–Riverview Campground on the West Fork.
Riding along Hebgen Lake as we approach West Yellowstone
A rest at the visitor center at Quake Lake
Giving the bikes a much needed rest in Yellowstone
The beautiful ride from Cameron to West Yellowstone along the Madison River.

Overdue pictures–by Schylie

Picnic dinner with Grandma, Grandpa, Teagan, and the Drabants at Klink’s Resort over July 4th
Chatting after dinner at the resort
Fishing with Grandpa
Terra caught at snake while we were at Klink’s Resort
Driving around with Grandma, Teagan, and Jordyn
Sandy got to try on Mama’s wedding dress! And we’ll be taking it home with us 🙂
Swimming at Bear Lake
We visited a special zoo called Cat Tales. Here are some baby raccoons that they were caring for.
One of the many cats at Cat Tales
On a hike with our cousins Dan & Heather
View during our hike
Cousin picture

July 10-11 on the TransAm

We had such a refreshing and blessed time at the Teakell’s that it was hard to leave. Yet we managed to leave the driveway just before 8 AM. Linda took the traditional photos of us and of our departure as we pulled away. We headed to the Sula Country Store for a few road snacks and then began our 10.5 mile climb up Lost Trail Pass. It really wasn’t that bad and we were at the top just before noon. If you head down the pass you immediately enter Idaho so we turned left on Hwy 43 for the short 1.5 mile climb up Chief Joseph Pass, which was also the first time we crossed the Continental Divide at 7241 ft (I think we cross it 3 more times as we meander through the Rockies). 

We had a 27 mile ride down into Wisdom. We were warned about the flies & mosquitos on the way to Wisdom but they actually weren’t too bad–that is until we reached Wisdom and turned towards Jackson. The 18 mile ride to Jackson was so mosquito-ridden that we had bites all over us. That whole area of open fields is irrigated by flooding, which creates a swampy environment ripe for them. It was quite an acrobatic feat to keep our bikes on the road while slapping mosquitos off our legs, hands, face, arms, and back. 

On the way to Wisdom we stopped by the Visitor Center at Big Hole Battlefield. It was the scene of a brutal and sad battle between American soldiers and the Nez Perce Tribe in Aug 1877. Many lives were needlessly lost on both sides. It’s a sad reminder that for how quickly America gets up in arms when other nations are mistreated we have much to be ashamed about in our own nation’s history. 

We pulled into Jackson glad to get off the road and indoors. Jackson is in the middle of nowhere with a population of 36. The Bunkhouse Hotel/Post Office doubles as a bike hostel so we had options for the night. We could camp in the yard, rent a queen bed in a public room of 6 queens, or rent a private room with a queen bed. Camping outside meant fighting the bugs, dealing with barking dogs, dirt bikes speeding through town, and the strange man across the street jamming on an out of tune guitar on his porch and singing grunge rock at the top of his lungs as if he was on stage and we were the audience. Renting a bed amidst beds meant being in a room with snorers and TV watchers. So we rented a room and I slept on my mat on the floor. We had a good night’s rest and got out of town by 7:15. 

The early morning temp in Jackson, at an elevation of 6475 ft, was 50 degrees. So we put on our base layers––I even put on my rain jacket, and we headed off to climb 2 passes and, Lord willing, make it 76 miles to a bike camp in Twin Bridges. The first pass was Big Hole Pass. We’d gradually gained so much elevation by the time we reached the Pass that when we really had to start climbing in our lower gears it was extremely short. We reached the summit in 30 mins and took our traditional photo shoot with the sign (7360 ft.). The ride down was super cool but within less than 10 miles we were climbing Badger Pass, which, though it was only 6760 ft, it was a harder and longer climb. We reached the summit before noon and were quickly heading down the other side to Dillon hoping to stop there for lunch and shopping. 

Dillon was a really nice town and there’s a warmshower there, but we really wanted to make it further than the 50 miles from Jackson to Dillon. So we chilled in the sidewalk of Safeway for 45 mins for lunch and a long rest. The patio furniture for sale out front worked well for our respite. Once we felt refuled we headed out strong to ride the 26 more miles to Twin Bridges. There was nothing to speak of along the way but it was a really beautiful ride. As great as the iPhone camera is it just can’t take in what the eyes can see. The beauty of the mountains, the hills, the clouds, the fields, the valleys, etc. You just need to soak it all up, enjoy it, give thanks to God, and ride on. There’s simply no way to capture it. Even the memory of it all will soon fade. So I’ve learned to smile and praise as I ride, because I may never see it again the way I’m seeing it now. This country looks so much more beautiful at 15 miles an hour than it does at 70. What a blessing it is to see it from the seat of a bicycle. 

We did pretty good getting to Twin Bridges by 5 PM. With all our stops, a long rest in Dillon, and a strong headwind the last 14 miles of the ride, we made good time. Originally we biked right past the Bike Camp clear to the other side of town. But a nice man in town redirected us and we made a u-turn and found it. Good thing the town is so small (pop. 381). There were already two guys here who’d stopped for lunch and liked it so much that they decided to stay the night. We were able to get a shower, clean our bikes, lube our chains, and the boys even took a swim in the river. 

Tomorrow’s going to be a challenging day. We’re hoping to make it to a campground on the other side of Cameron. It’s only 66 miles but we have to climb 2300 ft over a steep Pass and then go uphill another 400 ft or so after the huge downhill. I know we can do it but I also know it won’t be easy. If we make it, then Thursday’s ride should take us to Madison, WY inside Yellowstone National Park where we hope to find lodging at the local Episcopal Church. 

My connection out here in the mountains will not allow me to post pictures so I’ll have to save them for later. 

Thanks for praying and thanks for following. We think of and pray for you daily. 

Until next time… 🙂

July 7-9 on the TransAm

We arrived in Missoula on the 6th and had a nice stay at the Shady Spruce Hostel–a block from the Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) office. On the morning of the 7th we made our way over to the ACA at 8:00 for free drinks, ice cream, and internet, as well as the opportunity to get our picture on the wall of cyclists and our bikes weighed. It was great to meet the people behind the desk of the TransAm, people passionate about cycling and sincerely interested in helping us on our way.

One of the things I needed to do was get online and find a place to stay ahead of Missoula. Though we had not used it yet, I thought I’d check the warmshowers.org site (a community of cyclists hosting cyclists) for options. While online at the ACA I overheard a conversation between Samuel Rhoades (whom we’d met, with his brother Chad, in Corvallis, OR, and with whom we’d met up a few times so far along the TransAm trail, whether at campgrounds or hostels) and two other cyclists passing through on their way to Astoria. They were recommending to Samuel that he really should plan to stop at Phil and Linda Teakell’s house in Conner, MT. They spoke so highly of it that I immediately looked them up on the warmshowers site and sent a request for lodging for either the night of the 7th or 8th.

By the time we finished doing our laundry, updating the blog, getting our bikes back from the shop, and saying goodbye to the ACA–and Samuel, we didn’t leave Missoula until 2:30 PM. It so was much later than I’d planned that I had to check my attitude. It was a blazing 98 degrees. I had wanted to leave by noon. I wanted to make it closer to Chief Joseph Pass than it now seemed we’d be able to do in a day. Forrest had ran over–and crushed–my expensive shades and I couldn’t find a replacement in town. And I felt I was forgetting something. I was not happy. The ride out of town began quietly. On top of that, I had trouble getting us on the Bitterroot Trail (a dedicated paved bike path which runs for 50 miles from Missoula to Hamilton). I had to mortify my discontent and realign myself with the fact of greatest comfort–the God who is, is my God, and He’s in perfect and wise control of every part of this journey.

Once we found the Bitterroot Trail (after getting turned around 3 times) we had a road to ourselves and pedaled on. We arrived in Lolo within the hour and decided to go shopping. I also decided to check my email and saw two replies to my requests from warmshowers. One from Curtis Bunton in Darby and the other from Linda Teakell in Conner (14 miles further). Curtis was more than willing to host us, along with the 6 other cyclists arriving that night, and Linda’s door was wide open. What to do. We obviously couldn’t take advantage of them both because there’s only 10 miles between them. Darby was a 64 mile ride from Missoula and Conner was 78 and, honestly, I didn’t feel like going either distance so late in the day.

I had heard that Curtis was a great host; but something was drawing me to Linda’s. I thought on it for a while as we biked on and decided we’d spend the night in Hamilton (48 miles from Missoula) and then bike 30+ miles to Conner the next day to enjoy a stay in Conner with the Teakell’s. The ride to Hamilton was hot and just a few miles before reaching town a man cycling the opposite way stopped ahead of us with the obvious intention of speaking to us. We stopped and greeted him and he said, “Do you know where you’re staying tonight?” I told him I wasn’t sure yet. He then highly reommended the Black Rabbit RV Park (where he was parked). I thanked him and told him we’d meet him there.

We pulled into the tenting area and within a few minutes of getting set up he came pedaling over asking us if we needed anything in town. I told him we’d already shopped and I was planning to make dinner after a quick shower. After I got out of the shower Bill had already been back to the campsite with cold drinks and fruit. Thanks Bill! After dinner I emailed Curtis and Linda, setting up our stay for Friday night with the Teakell’s. We had a good night’s rest and got on the road in the morning with only fruit for breakfast since we knew we had a short ride to Conner.

On the way to Conner we stopped off on the side of the road for a break and a man, going in the opposite direction, stopped his truck on the other side of the road and said, “I think you’re going to my house.” “Are you Phil?” I said. “Yes I am.” “Then yes we are!” After giving us directions to his house he headed on and so did we. He was such a nice man that it put a turn in our crank, causing us to pedal on with more ease and joy.

We arrived at the Teakell’s at 1PM, greeted by a chalkboard sign on the door with the words, “Welcome James, Forrest, Rocky, and Samuel!” “That’s awesome,” I thought. “Samuel’s on his way here too!” After a knock Linda opened the door with a smile, walked us over to the kitchen for a glass of ice water, and then marched us out behind the house to sit on a log and dangle our feet in the Laird Creek which rushes by no more than 8 feet from her back deck. In fact, she joined us and we talked so comfortably and easily that you’d think we were friends at a reunion. This was going to be a great stay.

We came inside for a late lunch and the boys were soon climbing the hillsides that surround this beautiful home on the creek. Later in the afternoon when Phil returned from town Linda took me and the boys on two four-wheelers several miles up into the hills to the fountain head of Laird Creek. It was a fun ride up and back and the views we got were stunning. After we got back and ate dinner I learned that Phil had 50 bails of hay to get out of the field into the barn. So I offered our help and soon we were bucking hay. It was such a blessing to give something back to these kind people who were giving so much to us.

Back at the house we started talking about the things of the Lord. They were both brought up in the Nazarene church but heard nothing of the real grace of God until they came out of it. The Lord has led them to a small community church in Sula where the preacher preaches the Bible and proclaims the grace of God in Jesus Christ. I was wishing we’d arrived at their home on Saturday night so we had the possibility of staying over on Sunday to go to church with them. When I expressed that to Linda she said she’d love to have us. That’s when I started thinking about the possibility of staying until Monday… It would mean taking another rest day. It would mean passing up the chance to actually cycle with Samuel. But it would also mean enjoying some sweet fellowship and getting some good soul food. So we stayed–and I’m so glad we did.

We had a wonderful Saturday which began with helping milk the goats 🙂 Then around the breakfast table Phil shared how the Lord healed him of stroke-paralysis when he was 25 and how the Lord healed him of hate when He converted him. Samuel sat quietly and listened. I pray the Lord will use it to draw Samuel to Himself and I pray we’ll have the opportunity to add our testimony to it the next time we see him. Once we got Samuel on his way Linda began arranging for the three of us to float down the Bitterroot River on tubes. What fun! She dropped us off at Hanson Crossing and we floated for about 1.5 hrs to Darby Bridge. After we got back the boys finished weeding around several fenced-in trees–a job they’d started in the morning. We had a wonderful evening together, looking forward to the Lord’s Day.

It was a real joy to be in the Lord’s house today. The saints at Sula Community Church were delightful. They welcomed us gladly and the sermon from 1Sam 30 was just the dose we needed. Pastor Del Abbey spoke of the things Satan likes to steal from us, things like our joy, our faith, our peace. He commented how sad it is that we’re often more grieved over losing our toys than we are over losing our joy. He reminded us that God is able to restore what Satan has stolen. I kept thinking of the saying of Thomas Brooks, “If Satan can’t keep you out of heaven (which, bless God, he cannot), he’ll do everything he can to keep heaven out of you.” I was encouraged by the good Word. Thank you Del!

After church Linda took us on a beautiful drive to a bison ranch which a guy in the church (Gary) manages. He met us there and we were enthralled to watch 75 bison feed in the field. We got to see them much closer up than we will in Yellowstone. Thank you Gary! I also enjoyed a great talk with Gary afterwards about the importance of the preaching of God’s Word and the need of the church for a steady diet of it. On the way back to the house the clouds were gathering and soon dropped a ton of much needed rain and a surprising bunch of hail. It was a cool sight for the boys.

I’m so glad we stayed the extra day. I don’t know what the church situation would’ve been like in Jackson, MT but I do know the Lord had a blessing for us here in Sula. The church was half the blessing. The other was the fellowship we’ve enjoyed with Phil and Linda Teakell. They have been a tall glass of cold water for our souls. They love the Lord. They love to serve, give, and do for others and they have a heart for hospitality. In fact, we’ve already arranged for Chantry and the girls to stop by here for a drink. I pray it blesses them as much as it’s blessed us. Thank you Phil and Linda! I pray we’ve blessed you as much as you’ve blessed us.

We’ll have to leave tomorrow, heading over Chief Joseph Pass towards Jackson, MT.  Not sure what the Lord has for us in the coming week, but I can’t wait to meet the people He’ll bring our way. We’re almost finished with our 4th week of biking. We’ve gone over 1000 miles (nearly a fourth of our total journey) and we should be in Wyoming by Friday.

Thanks for praying and thanks for following.

Until next time… 🙂

July 1-6 on the TransAm

July 1 on the TranAm

Having gotten ourselves to Slate Creek Campground last night, we were just over 10 miles from White Bird and the legendary White Bird Hill. The hill is–in total–a climb of about 12 miles with the first 8.5 miles being composed of 19 switchbacks. Looking from below, Rocky commented about one part of the climb, “Daddy, that looks impossible on a bike!” But praise be to God, we reached the hill and slowly but surely made our climb up it. All-in-all it wasn’t that bad. I confess that I approached it with trepidation. Riding the 10 miles to it, I kept thinking, “I’m not looking forward to this.” But I committed it to prayer, put off the fear, and just kept pedaling. The climb was long but very beautiful. We kept looking back over the hill we were conquering, looking back down to the small town of White Bird (pop. 91), and thinking, “We’re doing it! Look how far we’ve come!” 

Before long we were at a summit-of sorts–took our last picture of the huge valley below, and headed on to cover the remaining 3.5 miles of climbing to the official summit. Sadly, we forgot to get a picture of it but it was quite the climb to the summit. The reward was a visit to the White Bird Summit Lodge, a home/lodge filled with wild game from all over the world. The husband and wife team have been hunting wild game all over the world since 1985. The walls were filled with mounts from the typical moose, elk, and bear to the unusual bison, baboon, zebra, and giraffe! It was like going a world zoo. They were very kind to let us look aroun, use the restroom, and fill up our water bottles. 

The ride down to Grangeville was a blast full of twists of turns at high speed. We stopped in Grangeville for lunch and headed to Kooskia where we would meet up with Chantry and the girls for the Lord’s Day. The ride out of Grangeville was surprisingly hard. The elevation profile map pictured sawtooth hills, which, to me, looked benign and insignificant. Boy was I wrong! The road took us through farms and met us with rolling hills for over 15 miles. The downhills were great but the uphills were so steep that we all (yes, even Forrest 🙂 had to walk our bikes up several of them. Our consolation? We heard that there was an awesome downhill coming, just before Kooskia–and we found it. It’s called Lamb Grade Rd. and it was the steepest and scariest hill we’ve been on yet. It was an 11-13% grade hill full of switchbacks and covered in gravel. We rode our brakes all the way down and couldn’t take most turns any faster than 5 miles an hour lest we slide across the lanes and down into oblivion. It had its fun moments, but they were few and far between the many scary moments. After we reached the bottom I said, ‘I am so glad we didn’t have to go up that hill!” 

The directions on my map from the bottom of that hill were not accurate and we took a wrong turn, going 1.5 miles in the wrong direction. Unable to find our next turn (which was supposed to be at a mile), I stopped and tried to regroup. Of course, we had no service and no way of reorienting ourselves. All I knew is that we were definitely lost. Forrest had saddle sores so badly that he wanted to stop right where we were and have Mama come to get us. I reminded him that we had no reception and that Mama would be waiting for us in Kooskia. So we had to get back on our bikes and, one way or another, get ourselves to Kooskia. Soon a lady walked out to the road and waved us over. She could tell we were lost and proceeded to give us directions to Kooskia. We thanked her and started back. Her directions soon aligned with my map and we were back on track. We rolled into Kooskia at about 4:00 and I borrowed a phone to call Chantry–not sure why I thought she’d have service since we didn’t :/ But providentially she was in Grangeville and I got through to her to let her know we were in Kooskia. She had gotten to Kooskia a lot earlier, tried to find us, and when she couldn’t she headed back to Grangeville thinking that we’d stopped there instead (since that was the last time we’d been able to speak on the phone). So we hung out in the parking lot of Napa Auto Parts and waited for a good hour for her and the girls to arrive. 

What a glad reunion it was when they showed up! Chantry had already booked 2 nights for us at the KOA in Kemiah so we headed straight there and settled down for the night. Tomorrow we planned to attend the First Indian Presbyterian Church just down the road from there. 

This is a good shot back over the valley which we’d climbed out of when heading up White Bird hill.
White Bird is hardly visible in the valley now. The picture above this one is zoomed in on White Bird. The towns get so mall once you’re up the hill a ways.
This picture is taken from the base of the climb up White Bird Hill. You can see some of the switchbacks going up the hill.
Here’s the picture from the “summit”. We still had 3.5 miles of climbing to go, but this is the last shot we could get overlooking the valley.
Took this picture in the town of White Bird. Love the boat at the top of the hill 🙂 I wondered if he was waiting on another flood.

July 2-3 on the TranAm

Kooskia/Kemiah are on the Nez Perce Indian reservation so I was looking forward to attending the First Indian Presbyterian Church near the KOA. It’s the oldest church in Idaho (1871). We pulled in 10 mins before service started and the parking lot was empty. Strange. We waited a few minutes and then decided to drive into Kemiah to the Second Indian Presbyterian Church. This parking lot was also empty. Was anyone having church today!? We drove to the gas station across the street to ask if she knew anything about the Indian church. She said, “What Indian Presbyterian church?” So we drove next door to the grocery store and stopped an Indian lady in the parking lot. She proceeded to tell me that the Indian Presbyterian were all celebrating some special event at a special place 30 miles away. Time to look for another church. It’s already 10:15. The Indian lady directed us to several churches in town so we drove through looking to see what we could find. We passed a Catholic Church. We passed a Lutheran church whose service was just ending. We passed a Presbyterian church with a female pastor. We passed an Assembly of God church with a husband & wife team as pastors. It was getting late now. Finally, we came to a Nazarene church whose service started at 11 AM. Looks like this is what the Lord had for us. 

The service was full of choruses and instead of a sermon a member of the congregation gave his testimony. We had lunch with Mody and Dawn Bass and returned for the 6 PM Bible study. The Bible study was attended by the elderly of the church. No kids. No pastor. It was taught by a member of the congregation. We missed the preaching of the Word that day but the fellowship with the saints there was sweet. In fact, one of the members sent us away with a cooler full of freshly smoked salmon and steelhead. Moreover, Mody and Dawn turned out to be a real blessing. We decided to stay over for an extra day and, having a hint from something Mody said to me on Sunday, we checked out of the KOA by 11:00 and headed to Mody’s house. They were surprised and delighted to see us and took us right in. We had a great day. They thoroughly spoiled us. They fed us well, we shot arrows, played horseshoes, shot his .22, rode his ATV, and roasted hot dogs and marshmallows. We all had a blast and felt at home away from home. We stayed the night with them and were sent on our way in the morning. They treated us like their own kids and thanked us for coming by. Thank you Mody and Dawn!! You guys are the best 🙂 God bless you both.

Mody gives the kids a quick lesson in archery.
Got this shot immediately after they all let loose. Would’ve been cool if I could’ve gotten the arrows flying through the air.
Showing us how it’s done.
Thank you Mody and Dawn for Sunday lunch!

This is a video of Mody calling a Bull Elk. 

July 4-5 on the TransAm

We spent the Fourth of July enjoying a beautiful ride along Highway 12 out of Kooskia on the way to Missoula. Given our time with the Basses, and an immediate flat tire on Rocky’s bike, we had a late start. We didn’t get rolling until 11:30. The road was narrow with no shoulder but given the holiday the number of cars and semis on the road were minimal. We biked well into the dark, not stopping until 10:30, using our headlight for the first time for night riding. It was much later than we wanted to go, but once again, it was a matter of trying to get to the next Campground. We stopped at Jerry Johnson Campground about 10 miles shy of Powell, the base of our next climb, Lolo Pass. 

We got an early start on July 5th, deciding to stop for breakfast at Lochsa Lodge in Powell. After breakfast we headed up the Pass, a climb of 12 miles. It was as hot as a pistol and the road had very little shoulder; but thankfully the traffic was still at a minimum. We reached the Pass within 3 hours and gladly crossed the state line into Montana at the summit at around 2:45. 

The ride down into Lolo and then on into Missoula was nondescript and on a gradual downhill. We were able to ride most of the 47 miles at 12-14 mph putting us into Missoula at about 7:30. 

When we got into Lolo we finally had reception, allowing me to catch up on texts and call head to the Shady Sprice Hostel and reserve the last three beds. Thank you Lord. We met some nice cyclists, especially Malcolm Foley from FL. He started in Yorktown and is heading west to Astoria. Go Malcolm! He gave us some great advice about the road ahead. Thanks Malcolm! 

Working on the flat on Rocky’s bike
The Shady Spruce Hostel in Missoula.
A two-bike pileup, thanks to loose gravel.
The Clearwater and Lochsa Rivers were absolutely gorgeous. It’s no surprise some have rated this portion of the ride from Kooskia to Lolo as the prettiest of all.
The typical lunch in the shade on the side of the road.
Thank you Mody and Dawn–for everything! God bless you for your kindness, hospitality, and Christian love.
Yay! Into our third state!! This was also the summit of Lolo Pass–though there was no summit sign for a picture.
The beautiful Lochsa River on Highway 12 in Idaho.
Once when we were pulled over for a rest along the Lochsa River, this guy stopped to make sure we were okay. His name is Gregory Grotto. He gave us water, graham crackers, and baby carrots. He wanted to be sure we we got the Grotto support vehicle in the picture! 🙂 Thanks Gregory!!
July 6 on the TranAm

Today we visited the Adventrue Cycling Association to have our picture taken, sign the guest book, and have our bikes weighed. Turns out, Forrest’s bike weighed in at 92 lbs, Rocky’s at 82, and mine at 94. The boys were missing a little more weight because we’re low on food and I’m down about 4 lbs because Forrest was carrying my hammock (although I told him I’d carry it from here :). Thank you Forrest. 

I’m typoing all this at the Green Hanger Laudromat while doing laundry and waiting for the bikes to get a quick onceover at a local bike shop. We’ll obviously have lunch here and only get a half-day’s riding in. But it was a worthwhile stop all the same. 

Here’s a map of all the official cycling routes mapped by the ACA. If you can follow it, our trail is the brown one starting in Astoria, OR and ending in Yorktown, VA. We’re heading into the Rockies now. Mountains instead of hills. Thanks for praying us home 🙂
Thanks for praying and thanks for following. 

Until next time… 🙂 

Meeting up with the guys/July 4th–by Schylie

We’ve been in a few places with inadequate or nonexistent wifi, so I haven’t been able to give you all an update. I think it’s about time.

Last Saturday, us girls drove to Kooskia, ID, where we would meet up with the guys for the weekend. As we were getting closer to our destination, we realized that we had lost cell reception. The last time we had talked to the guys, Daddy had given us an idea where they were and that they were on their way to Kooskia. Forrest had called Mama and left a message, but all that came through was: “Mama, we’re–” Kind of disheartening. So we drove to the crossroads of two main roads where we thought they would pass, and where we could pick them up. We waited, and waited, and waited…

Continue reading “Meeting up with the guys/July 4th–by Schylie”

June 30 pictures

These photos accompany the June 30 post. 

Rocky wasn’t so sure about this. He was worried the road would collapse further underneath us. Notice how we let Forrest go first 😉
The collapsed road in Pollock. We walked our bikes across to avoid going back up the hill we’d descended to get here 🙂
These guys, along with hundreds of others, were pulling Salmon out of the river in Riggins with ease.
More of Little Salmon River.
The ride along Little Salmon River.
Starting on breakfast in Council, OR. Yes, we had ramen noodles for breakfast.
This beautiful waterfall flowed directly into Little Salmon River.
Some of the beautiful scenery along the Little Salmon River.

June 29 pictures

These pictures accompany the June 29 Post. 

The picture doesn’t do it justice. Maybe you can zoom in and see the crickets covering the road. They got much thicker a little ways up the road. They were everywhere.
Finally! Out of Oregon and into Idaho! The Brownlee climb was just behind this sign and it was steep right out of the gate. No mercy. Thanks Idaho.
Our setup for the night in the Gazebo in Council, OR back of the American Legion.
Trying not to be checkmated by the Brownlee climb. Every bit of shade, which is sparse, is a precious rest stop.
The Brownlee Reservoir. What a gorgeous sight.
The Brownlee Dam
A mormon cricket. These guys covered the road by the thousands. Like Pam said, it was the stuff nightmares are made of. Creepy…
Took this picture going up the Brownlee climb. I loved the rock formations.
Nothing like a summit picture! That was a hard climb. Praise God we made it.
The Brownlee Dam and Idaho State Line are in the background. We’d just traveled the 10 miles from Oxbow Dam where we stayed the night. We’re taking a short rest preparing ourselves for the climb up to Brownlee summit.
This is the Oxbow Reservoir. I was stunned by the near perfect reflection cast on the still water. I took this one for my mother, who loves reflections. Love ya mama!