We had such a refreshing and blessed time at the Teakell’s that it was hard to leave. Yet we managed to leave the driveway just before 8 AM. Linda took the traditional photos of us and of our departure as we pulled away. We headed to the Sula Country Store for a few road snacks and then began our 10.5 mile climb up Lost Trail Pass. It really wasn’t that bad and we were at the top just before noon. If you head down the pass you immediately enter Idaho so we turned left on Hwy 43 for the short 1.5 mile climb up Chief Joseph Pass, which was also the first time we crossed the Continental Divide at 7241 ft (I think we cross it 3 more times as we meander through the Rockies).
We had a 27 mile ride down into Wisdom. We were warned about the flies & mosquitos on the way to Wisdom but they actually weren’t too bad–that is until we reached Wisdom and turned towards Jackson. The 18 mile ride to Jackson was so mosquito-ridden that we had bites all over us. That whole area of open fields is irrigated by flooding, which creates a swampy environment ripe for them. It was quite an acrobatic feat to keep our bikes on the road while slapping mosquitos off our legs, hands, face, arms, and back.
On the way to Wisdom we stopped by the Visitor Center at Big Hole Battlefield. It was the scene of a brutal and sad battle between American soldiers and the Nez Perce Tribe in Aug 1877. Many lives were needlessly lost on both sides. It’s a sad reminder that for how quickly America gets up in arms when other nations are mistreated we have much to be ashamed about in our own nation’s history.
We pulled into Jackson glad to get off the road and indoors. Jackson is in the middle of nowhere with a population of 36. The Bunkhouse Hotel/Post Office doubles as a bike hostel so we had options for the night. We could camp in the yard, rent a queen bed in a public room of 6 queens, or rent a private room with a queen bed. Camping outside meant fighting the bugs, dealing with barking dogs, dirt bikes speeding through town, and the strange man across the street jamming on an out of tune guitar on his porch and singing grunge rock at the top of his lungs as if he was on stage and we were the audience. Renting a bed amidst beds meant being in a room with snorers and TV watchers. So we rented a room and I slept on my mat on the floor. We had a good night’s rest and got out of town by 7:15.
The early morning temp in Jackson, at an elevation of 6475 ft, was 50 degrees. So we put on our base layers––I even put on my rain jacket, and we headed off to climb 2 passes and, Lord willing, make it 76 miles to a bike camp in Twin Bridges. The first pass was Big Hole Pass. We’d gradually gained so much elevation by the time we reached the Pass that when we really had to start climbing in our lower gears it was extremely short. We reached the summit in 30 mins and took our traditional photo shoot with the sign (7360 ft.). The ride down was super cool but within less than 10 miles we were climbing Badger Pass, which, though it was only 6760 ft, it was a harder and longer climb. We reached the summit before noon and were quickly heading down the other side to Dillon hoping to stop there for lunch and shopping.
Dillon was a really nice town and there’s a warmshower there, but we really wanted to make it further than the 50 miles from Jackson to Dillon. So we chilled in the sidewalk of Safeway for 45 mins for lunch and a long rest. The patio furniture for sale out front worked well for our respite. Once we felt refuled we headed out strong to ride the 26 more miles to Twin Bridges. There was nothing to speak of along the way but it was a really beautiful ride. As great as the iPhone camera is it just can’t take in what the eyes can see. The beauty of the mountains, the hills, the clouds, the fields, the valleys, etc. You just need to soak it all up, enjoy it, give thanks to God, and ride on. There’s simply no way to capture it. Even the memory of it all will soon fade. So I’ve learned to smile and praise as I ride, because I may never see it again the way I’m seeing it now. This country looks so much more beautiful at 15 miles an hour than it does at 70. What a blessing it is to see it from the seat of a bicycle.
We did pretty good getting to Twin Bridges by 5 PM. With all our stops, a long rest in Dillon, and a strong headwind the last 14 miles of the ride, we made good time. Originally we biked right past the Bike Camp clear to the other side of town. But a nice man in town redirected us and we made a u-turn and found it. Good thing the town is so small (pop. 381). There were already two guys here who’d stopped for lunch and liked it so much that they decided to stay the night. We were able to get a shower, clean our bikes, lube our chains, and the boys even took a swim in the river.
Tomorrow’s going to be a challenging day. We’re hoping to make it to a campground on the other side of Cameron. It’s only 66 miles but we have to climb 2300 ft over a steep Pass and then go uphill another 400 ft or so after the huge downhill. I know we can do it but I also know it won’t be easy. If we make it, then Thursday’s ride should take us to Madison, WY inside Yellowstone National Park where we hope to find lodging at the local Episcopal Church.
My connection out here in the mountains will not allow me to post pictures so I’ll have to save them for later.
Thanks for praying and thanks for following. We think of and pray for you daily.
Until next time… 🙂
